Prior Issue (Archive)
Tempest In A Teapot
A History of Tea

According to Chinese legend, the story of tea began in 2737 BC. Emperor Shen Nung, who was known as the “Divine Healer”, always boiled his water before drinking it. He had observed that those who boiled their water had better health. One afternoon, as he knelt before his boiling water, some leaves from a nearby tree blew into the water. The Emperor noted a delightful aroma and, upon sipping the beverage, proclaimed it heaven sent - that was the beginning of tea drinking! Today, next to water, tea is the most popular drink in the world and Maritimers drink more tea than any other group in Canada.

The Dutch were among the first people in Europe to drink tea and their ships imported tea to western Europe in the late 1600’s but it was in Britain that tea gained its first strong toe hole in the western world. When it was first introduced in Britain one pound of it cost the average British labourer the equivalent of nine months wages. At first it was used primarily for medicinal purposes but by the early 18th century, it was available at a price most families could afford, the expense was offset by the weakness of the beverage - for very little tea was put in the pot. They had no tea bags then, of course, so it was carefully measured out and the tea caddy was kept locked when not in use to keep it from the servants.

Tea drinkers have Anna, Duchess of Bedford to thank for beginning the ritual of afternoon tea around 1840. At that time, aristocracy ate an early breakfast, a scant midday snack, and dinner around 8 o’clock. By late afternoon, the duchess was very hungry and she would slip into her boudoir around five o’clock to indulge in a pot of tea with small cakes and sandwiches. Soon she was sending cards to her fashionable friends, inviting them to join her. In most Canadian households, however, it was not until the latter part of the Victorian era that the afternoon tea became a popular mode of entertainment.

The history of Saint John is closely bound to tea. Two Saint John tea companies were known throughout the world - The G.E. Barbour Company, producers of King Cole Tea and the Red Rose Tea Company.

The G.E. Barbour Company, Limited is literally as old as Canada itself. The firm was established in 1867 - the same year as Confederation. Two brothers, George L. Barbour and William Barbour, displayed their faith in the future of the new Canada, by giving up their jobs as clerks to go into business as wholesalers, or commission merchants as they were called then. They opened their first office and warehouse at 9 and 10 South Market Wharf in Saint John, the site of the historic Loyalist landing of 1783 and now known as Market Slip. Beginning with the wholesaling of fish, butter, eggs, and poultry, the brothers built up a bustling enterprise. In 1867 Saint John was the fourth largest ship-owning port in the world and the home of Canada’s largest fleet of merchant vessels. Disaster struck in the Great Saint John Fire of 1877 which destroyed the Barbour buildings but the brothers were able to salvage it and get it back on its feet. To celebrate its centennial and that of Canada in 1967, the G.E. Barbours Company acquired and restored a 100 year old country general store. This award-winning tourist attraction, now sits at Market Square near the site of the original Barbour’s store. The Red Rose Tea company was started in Saint John in 1894 by Theodore Estabrooks. He dealt in the import and export of various commodities, but felt that tea was his future. During the first year of business he only sold $166 in tea but even so he did not give up. In just six years, he was selling over a thousand tons of tea per year.

The Red Rose brand was born in 1899 when Estabrooks met M.R. Miles, a member of a prestigious tea-taster family in England. They came up with the idea to create a blend of Indian and Sri Lankan teas rather than the more common Chinese and Japanese teas. The result was a rich and flavourable tea, that they sold under the name Red Rose. Their tea quickly became a household name around new Brunswick and Nova Scotia and also spread down into the New England states. Their original office building and plant has been preserved and is located near Union Street in Saint John. The mansion once owned by Theodore Estabrooks is located on Mt. Pleasant Avenue and is now a Bed and Breakfast establishment.

Over the centuries, tea devotees have created a ‘tempest in a teacup’ over proper preparation of tea. Because tea picks up alien odors and flavors easily, it must be packed carefully, kept dry and clean, away from strong-smelling foods. Tea utensils should be used only for tea. Because the tea leaf best unfolds in water kept at near-boiling temperatures, the teapot should be warmed before using by rinsing with boiling water and covered with a tea cozy during infusion. Two-thirds of an ounce of tea or approximately one teaspoon per cup are required for each quart of infusion. One tea bag is sufficient for two cups. To make the best possible cup of tea follow these simple rules: run the cold water tap till the water is fresh and clear before filling the kettle. Always use fresh boiled water to extract the full flavour from the leaves. The water should be just boiling; continuous boiling tends to de-aerate water and de-aerated water brews flat tea. After you pour the water in, tea should be left to brew for not less than five minutes. During this interval, the leaves unfold, this is known as “the agony of the leaves”, at this stage they release the tannins and caffeine which give it its flavour. After five minutes the tea will be flavorful but not acid in taste and will provide a mildly stimulating effect.

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